Mount Quincy Adams, Fairweather Range
Our fifth day aboard the Sea Lion brought us into the spectacular surroundings of Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. Unlike other mornings, this one held promise of lifting clouds and possible blue skies. Ringed by ice and snow-capped peaks, Glacier Bay has only recently – in geologic terms – been deglaciated. Two hundred and fifty years ago this enormous bay, more than sixty-five miles in length, was entirely filled with a flowing river of ice.
Our first stop of the morning was alongside South Marble Island. This raucous piece of real estate is home to a variety and abundance of nesting seabirds. Kittiwakes, Pigeon Guillemots, Cormorants, and Tufted Puffins were among the many species of birds all sharing the sanctuary of this isolated island. Stellar sea lions also call the island home, and we saw a large grouping of males “hauled out” and resting upon the rocks. Their vocalizations – loud “rolling belches” – could be clearly heard over the calm waters.
From South Marble Island we proceeded up bay past Sandy Cove and Tlingit Point where we spotted a magnificent mature brown bear feeding in the inter-tidal zone. All were impressed by its obvious strength as it effortlessly overturned large boulders in search of succulent snacks to slurp up. Further up, at Gloomy Knob, we spied two mountain goats silhouetted atop the rocky ridgeline while another lounged about at a much lower level.
Taking a shallow narrow shortcut between Russell Island and the mainland, we entered Tarr Inlet and found ourselves looking up the broad icy avenue of the Grand Pacific Glacier into Canada. Here, too, was the wide white terminus of the Margerie Glacier. Together, these two glaciers presented us with a wall of ice more than two hundred feet tall and three miles wide. Above it all, bathed in blue and white ice, and awash in sunshine, majestic mountains towered above us. Beneath it all, a lone harbor seal, resting on a piece of ice, studied us as we passed by within thirty feet. As we could go no further, we spent an hour drifting in front of these two glaciers. With a silent reverence we waited and watched… and quietly absorbed the beauty of this incredible, indescribable, and inspiring landscape.
