Baranof Island

During the early morning hours the Sea Lion made her way north up the eastern side of Baranof Island. Alaskan sunshine poured softly down from the low cloud cover. Our morning had just barely begun and the Captain was requesting the Expedition leader to call the bridge…..a sighting of Killer Whales had been made and slowly the vessel began a turn into Warm Springs Bay. The Killer Whales were milling about, rising in the water, taking a breath, then descending and continuing their journey of exploration. We followed suit, and began a slow pass of Warm Springs Bay. This was not an uninhabited bay, and soon several smaller boats leaving their anchorage's, also interested in Killer Whales joined the Sea Lion. These marine mammals are actually the world's largest member of the Dolphin family, and for many of us, a sighting we were hoping to find during our journey in the extensive waters of Southeast Alaska. There was one large male, two females and one very small and very young member of this family. The two females remained on both sides of the young Killer Whale escorting their youngster as the group moved around the bay. After we had spent some time observing this group of whales we moved in for a closer look at the enormous water fall that is the center piece for this secluded inlet. The Sea Lion was expertly maneuvered up to the face of the falls while many of us remained on the bow, despite the rain, and enjoyed the sound of thousands of gallons of falling water!

Soon it was time for the Sea Lion to begin positioning for her afternoon anchorage in Kelp Bay. The weather was lifting, and things began to look up for a long kayak, Zodiac tours and hikes in old growth forest.

As soon as lunch was finished, Zodiacs and kayaks were launched and activities were under way! Once kayakers were on their way for yet another peaceful paddle in and around Kelp Bay, the hikers were brought ashore for an exceptionally special journey into the realm of old growth forest. In Southeast Alaska's Tongass National Forest approximately three percent of 17 million acres is considered old growth forest. This afternoon, we would have the opportunity to walk in a diverse forest, climb over and under the downed trees, wade through the many small creeks, explore the forest and bog, eat huckleberries and spend a rare moment lying in the myriad of mosses, gazing up in contemplation at the forest over our heads!

As we began our walk through this unusually dense forest we stopped to listen to the many birdcalls, continued walking and examined the wild flowers, the slime molds, and the caps still remaining on the hair-cap moss. Our hike took us through the forest, out along a creek, back into the forest, and face to face with an optical allusion in the form of the far end of a beaver dam. From our first point of observation it appeared the water was stopped, yes, but at least three feet higher than where we stood. As we climbed the sound of the stream faded and we found ourselves at the top of the beaver dam looking at water as still as mirrored glass…..with reflections of trees, grass and the far bank mirrored back to us on that still water surface in perfect symmetry.

We paused, listened for the spirits of the old relatives who had walked before us exploring this same small island paradise of undisturbed forest. Then we continued on through the forest to a bog still in its formative stages! As we passed close to the water's edge we began to see signs of beaver…..teeth marks on the trees and a lovely beaver lodge out in the middle of a large pond. SLAP!! SLAP!! An extremely large beaver came out of his lodge to investigate….who were these intruders in his forest and pond? Slowly he passed through the lily pads in the pond in front of where we stood, slapped his tail again and again, letting us know who really was one of the permanent residents of Pond Island.

Soon it was time for us to retreat and follow our footsteps back through the bog, along the creek and through this magnificent forest. As we passed under the canopy of Sitka spruce, Western hemlock and Yellow cedar we returned to the thoughts of that comfortable pose….lying in the moss being just still and present enough to hear the elemental whisper of the forests over our heads…..