Ensenada Grande, Isla Partida

Thar she blows! A wind from the north motivated us to spend the day exploring the dramatic contours of Ensenada Grande, the ‘big bay’ of Isla Partida. The turquoise blue waters reflected off the pale bellies of the blue-footed boobies, brown pelicans, terns, and the lone osprey that were feeding in the early morning light. Following their example, we headed inside for breakfast and Jim’s announcement of the day’s events. Most of us spent the morning walking the desert, snorkeling, or trekking to the east side of the island to gaze across the Gulf of California. Others relaxed on the ship, took a ride in a Zodiac, or twiddled their toes on the sandy beach. After a scrumptious lunch we lowered the kayaks and explored the bay from the water. Fantastical rock sculptures lined the north coast of the bay, the creation of water, chemistry, wind and time. Herons, gulls and Sally Lightfoot crabs watched our passing from their perches. But they weren’t the only ones…for everywhere the lizards lingered – lurking, laying and looking!

Yes, it’s true – these animals were everywhere, basking in the sun and scuttling away at our approach. Pictured above is one of the many lizards seen today, a brush lizard (genus Urosaurus). Lizards are ectotherms – animals that regulate their body temperature using external sources such as direct sunlight and sun-warmed rocks. This adaptation greatly reduces their metabolic energy needs and enables them to thrive off a portion of the food needed by endothermic animals such as humans (that’s why we need so many more Nanaimo squares and cheese cake slices!). Baja California’s deserts are host to a great variety of amphibians and reptiles, many of which are found here and nowhere else.

Back on the ship, we enjoyed drinks and appetizers and a lively recap from our natural history staff. We learned about the ‘green flush,’ how plants were used to engrave shells, and the origins of the Mexican flag and the name ‘California.’ We also learned of a unique trick from the lazy turkey vulture – how to cool off using ‘urohydrosis.’ (Perhaps, we’ll stick with ice water.)