Santo Antão – Cape Verde Islands

Sitting on the crossroads of continents, the Cape Verde Islands played an important role during the Portuguese era of exploration. Named after Cape Vert on the African coast, this archipelago has throughout history suffered many horrifically deadly drought periods making “Green Cape” one of the more sinister misnomers in the world.

Our anticipation could not be contained—some of us arose in darkness so we could be among the first to catch a glimpse of Santo Antão. A first for Linblad Expeditions, our morning exploration of the island began with a Zodiac ride to the ferry dock.

As our caravan of minibuses ascended the moonlike landscape of the southern part of the island, we were overwhelmed by the volcanic rocks’ patchwork of colors enhanced by the magical light.

In disbelief we watched the scenery transform from the barren Sahara-like conditions to a lush, abundantly green environment. We eagerly grabbed our cameras to capture the dramatic landscape on our first stop. The fertile valley below us was covered with fields of corn, beans and potatoes that yield crops three times a year and help feed the local folk. Here we had great views of the Neglected Kestrel, an endemic resident of the northern Cape Verde Islands.

Back on the road, we climbed to 4,200 feet before descending to the valley of Ribeira Grande. The snake-like road wound down a series of switchbacks, each revealing precipitous views down canyons with small villages perched in its depths.

At the bottom, we strolled the cobblestone streets of Ribeira Grande, the first settlement of Santo Antão, interacting with the villagers and visiting the church and market.

On our way back to the ship we stopped at a small trapiche, a place where grogue is made. A sugar cane rum and the typical drink of the Cape Verde Islands, this potent spirit is consumed by all of the islanders and is an essential thread of their cultural fabric. Some of us sampled the local liquor in a symbolic gesture to help celebrate, as Cape Verdians were, the unusual and desperately needed wet weather.

A sunset Zodiac cruise capped a magical day! We observed brown boobies as they busily came and went from their nests looking for food. The blood red sun dipped below the horizon and we said a reluctant goodbye to Ilhéu Raso.