South Georgia

“Expotition” – a noun: alternative pronunciation of ‘Expedition’ but more accurately refers to a long line of people in a boat, usually on voyages of discovery in which, it is hoped by all concerned, nothing ‘fierce’ is discovered.
–from the Pooh Dictionary.

To find South Georgia on your globe you have to roll it up side down. This 100 mile long island lies within the Antarctic Convergence near the bottom of the world and supports one of the richest concentrations of wildlife on earth. Although a feast for the nature lover, adventurer, photographer or student of exploration history, it is remote and difficult to reach by conventional modes of travel. What one needs is a ship that is built for the unpredictable southern seas and preferably comfortable as well. The Endeavour is just such a ship. In fact it is generally considered to be the best equipped expedition ship afloat today. On our third day of exploration along the coast of South Georgia we made the most of the opportunities afforded us.

Following an early breakfast we landed at Gold Harbor. Our trusty fleet of Zodiacs carried us ashore where we found black sand beaches and a host of wildlife. Enormous elephant seals making rude noises and jostling for comfortable positions shared the ground with the feisty fur seals. There was an impressive assortment of bird life including three species of penguins, skuas, gulls, albatross, sheathbills and more. The photographic opportunities close to the landing slowed our walking pace, but the more energetic of us made the climb through the tussock grass in search of nesting sites at higher elevations.

Our afternoon landing was combined with a leisurely Zodiac cruise. Everyone enjoyed close views of the macaroni. With their distinctive and colorful crests they are perhaps the most gaudily feathered of the penguin family. Ashore we were rewarded with close encounters with a variety of wildlife while sharing interpretive walks with our Natural History staff. Gray skies mixed with occasional patches of blue throughout the day and made for great photography. Being able to observe several species at close range means we can take the time to study their behavior. The dramatic backdrop of mountain range and glaciers serves to magnify the wonders that parade before us. This little-visited island stands high on the list of special places where the senses soon become saturated.

With dinner concluded, our ship cruised close in to shore. With forward seeking sonar Captain Skog is comfortable taking the Endeavour into waters where no soundings have been made and other ships might avoid. Steep and ragged peaks were alternately blanketed with greenery and snow field. We flooded to the decks with our cameras to take in the magical evening light that, like Midas, turned everything to gold. As we leave South Georgia in our wake tonight we have thoughts of the Shackleton Expedition. When we think of their struggles and difficulties we take off our hats to their ability to prevail and survive. But when we want a place to hang that same hat on our own expedition we are happy for the comfort of the Endeavour as we continue south.