At 6-years-old, Brooke knew she wanted to be an Expedition Photographer. So much so, she insisted her mother sign her up for drawing classes - just in case her camera broke in-the-field. Ever since, her love for storytelling has inspired her to pursu...
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Back to Daajing Giids! After an incredible day in SGang Gwaay visiting an ancestral village with still-standing historic totem poles, our Haida hosts thought it appropriate to bring us to Old Massett – and what a joy it was! This remarkable township is home to two master carvers responsible for sharing their culture far and wide. Jim Hart showed us his home studio where we got to meet his mother and his son. Together, Jim and his son shared the stories of the three totem poles outside of their home, each with a unique story regarding close family members. Another master carver some 5 minutes down the road, Christian White, beckoned us into his carving shed where he and his apprentices were actively shaping a canoe out of red cedar. Christian and Jim honor their ancestors’ legacies by training young Haida as carvers, each having several apprentices. In both workshops, the smell of newly carved cedar brought a sense of purpose and hard work; wood shavings danced in the air like the Haida dancers would just after lunch today. It was another wonderful day of sharing, dancing, singing, and laughing.
Early this morning, National Geographic Sea Lion set her anchor off Anthony Island, in the southwest corner of Haida Gwaii. It is the location of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the old Haida village of SGang Gwaay. The village is also called Ninstints by Europeans, a corruption of the name of the chief of the village, Nan stins (“He who is two”). The Haida name for the village is Squa’ngwa-l Inaga’l, or “Red Cod Island Town”. Sgang Gwaay is considered the most secluded and protected of all old Haida villages. What brings both Indigenous and non-native travelers to this remote location, are the mortuary poles in situ. A world-famous location, these mortuary poles stand exactly where they were raised in the early 1800’s. Our shipmates were divided into groups of twelve, then ferried ashore with our three Haida hosts, Grace, Getinjud, and Barbara. These ladies walked, talked, sang, sharing their Haida culture for the entire day. From phenomenal and beautiful Haida stories of this sacred site, our group moved from shore to sea for Zodiac rides. It was an amazing day spent with Haida people in a place of great and important history to the Haida Nation.
Our first full day in Haida Gwaii was spent in Daajing Giids, a small coastal town on the central east coast of this archipelago. It is just a few minutes from the Haida Heritage Center, a living museum focusing on the art, history, and future of this dynamic place and its culture. Just a few days ago, Haida Gwaii was formally given title to all their ancestral lands for the first time since they were settled by Canadians and incorporated into the province of British Columbia. This is a profound step towards reconciliation and Haida autonomy from provincial and federal influence. Our time in the heritage center was guided by James, an impassioned Haida activist who caught us up to speed on the recent political progress of this small island nation. After our visit, we headed into the forest at the Spirit Lake Trailhead to take in some of the island’s interior. Dwarfed by huge Sitka spruce and western redwood trees, some with decades-old scars from logging and cultural harvest, we quickly came to appreciate the varied habitats of this remote island.